Desert Trip
January 8th, 2010Once again we returned to the date farm north of Riyadh. This time we went with our friends the Lefebvres; Paul Taralyn, Erik and Mathias. We stayed at the guest quarters (one of about three different guest quarters available) of the family patriarch. The quarters are located on a working date farm, so naturally we took a little walk around the place after arriving from Riyadh.
That afternoon we were taken to the families new home sitting atop a dune and overlooking the valley. It is impossible to describe the tranquility, and surreality of sitting pool-side with a long green lawn stretching out in front of you while looking across a desert valley to the bluffs on the other side.
We went for a little walk through the dunes after having a wonderful lunch. The walk got as far as the first big dune, and then low and behold, what fun it is to throw ones self off the dune and tumble down the soft sand!
At one point in the afternoon we also had the chance to go hunting with falcons. Yes, they keep several trained falcons for hunting. This is a traditional sport in the Middle East (and elsewhere) and was it ever interesting to watch. The first bird has been trained to follow the lead of a couple of dogs who flush the game, usually rabbits or pigeons, and then it dives down and attacks them.
Unfortunately (for us, not the rabbit) the dogs failed to spot the rabbit, but both birds (the second one hunts freely with out the aid of a dog) did get a couple of pigeons. It was really interesting to watch and all eight of us really enjoyed the experience. There was one pigeon that got away, the funny part was that he hung around the house for the next two days.
The kids did this for about two hours until it was time to light the bonfire and relax with a little tea and watch the stars come out. It was so relaxing and a great time was had by all. From that point we went inside as it was getting a little cold, and had a fantastic dinner. Unfortunately we had forgotten to check all pockets, folds and crevices of clothing for sand. I regret to say I think we left a little bit of the desert in the house! Not to worry though, I think our hosts were used to the situation (they have five children and two grand children) and the cleaning staff was up to the task.
The next morning we walked through the dates again, after having a three course breakfast. The hard part about that was that they chose to serve us outside….let me tell you, the mornings in the desert are cold! Anyway, after a great breakfast, a nice walk and then a little play we we escorted to the old part of town. The farm lies on the outskirts of a small town called Al Ghat. From what we can gather the original part of town - mud and straw houses - has been bought by the family we stayed with and they are restoring the buildings to be used as guest housing, perhaps a hotel, who knows.
We toured the first of the restored buildings, the one in which our hosts mother was married in fact, and wow was it amazing. As some of you know I am a bit critical when it comes to restoration work, in other words I am not easily impressed. Well let me tell you, this was impressive! Even little things like matching the strike plate color, or painting the AC units so they don’t stand out were taken care of. One interesting thing was the room that used to be the date storage room still smells like dates, the walls have been repaired with new mud/straw plaster, painted, new furniture, etc. and it still smells like dates. The whole site of the old town was really interesting, and I for one would stay there in a heartbeat…well, perhaps once the rest of it is restored, as you can see, the neighboring houses have a ways to go.
After the old town we went to the town library which the Foundation the family runs had built. It has both a men’s side and women’s as well as a conference center. It is really an amazing facility for such a small town. On Paul’s good advice we took the opportunity to have a nice family photo taken in front of the building.
After the tour we returned to the family home for lunch and a couple of different activities. Charmagne, Taralyn and the kids went camel riding…a first for their family. In fact not only did they ride, but evidently Taralyn and Dante kissed the camels! I am glad I was not there to see that one.
While all of that was going on Paul and I went gazelle hunting. There is a large heard of wild gazelle (Reem in Arabic) on the property. Originally the families two teenage boys were going to take us but they were busy trying to extract a four wheeler from a sand dune so they gave Paul the Mauser rifle and off we went. I was only armed with a Canon camera and a large kitchen knife (in case we got lucky and had to butcher the gazelle). The upshot was that we had a really nice walk through the dunes, and in the process of trying to drive the Reem back towards Paul I had a wonderful shot of the heard running right in front of me.
Both Paul and I had a good laugh and a lot of fun trooping through the dunes. As a compensation the family sent us home with two frozen sides of meat from previous hunts. As soon as it thaws I am trying gazelle steak on the grill.
The day wound down with a lovely bonfire, story telling and dinner. During this last Isabel really took to our hostess. She, the hostess, is a new-ish grandmother of two small grandsons, and I think she really enjoyed the chance to have a snuggly Isabel hanging on her every word. We are really grateful that Isabel, who seems to need extra adults in her life, had this opportunity. In fact she now claims to have four grandmas; two in the US, one in Germany and now one here. On this warm and comfortable note we went back to our rooms for a good nights sleep. We awoke to another great breakfast (this time inside) and then headed back to Riyadh. We are so grateful for the wonderful people we stayed with, their kindness and hospitality, the great company of the Lefebvre family and the chance to get out of town. This little, action packed, trip was a great way to end our holiday break. So now it is back to the real world, work, students, school politics and all that jazz.








































































